Setting up the DRCV shock is similar to any other air shock, but an extra step is required during the process that you wouldn't have to do with a standard unit. The goal with this technology is to be able to have your cake and eat it as well, meaning to have a lively but firm spring to push against that is provided by the main chamber, but benefit from the secondary chamber's ability to add a more linear and forgiving end to the stroke. The plunger is referred to as the control valve, or the "CV" in DRCV. Connecting the two chambers is a plunger, or valve, that opens the airway between the two at a predetermined point in the travel. The two different air chambers provide two different rates depending on where the shock is at in its stroke. The "DR" stands for Dual Rate, and is as simple as that. The extra length at the top houses the smaller, secondary air spring chamber, which is partly where the DRCV name is derived from. Another look though and it becomes obvious that there is certainly something very different going on here. For mere mortals like me though, it's a shop trip no two ways about it.If you only had a quick glimpse at the Fox Float DRCV shock you may not notice the damper's extra length that is positioned above the upper mounting point.
#FOX FLOAT RP23 TRAVEL HOW TO#
So, if you know how to service a damper that uses nitrogen and can get the parts, then it's user serviceable. boost valve seals or o-rings or something (can't remember) Repair from Fox only apparently that included: you may also feel a slight knock when you stop (related to above symptom). Shock moves through that first few millimeters quickly, way too quickly. Once the oil is really well mixed with air, the shock will make a very quiet 'squish' noise when moving through the very first few millimeters of travel (that's the damper air/oil moving past the seal and mixing with the damper oil/air.) Once it fails, damping gets progressively worse. The issue is with the device that keeps the damper air(nitrogen) and damper oil separate. Apparently it is a known fault - the fault isn't that common but it happens in the same way each time.Īpologies in advance for the description - I didn't really understand anything I was told!: The mechanic at the MTB park had a look, thought he recognized the issue and called Fox to confirm. I had a similar issue with my RP23 from a Specialized Enduro while on holiday in New Zealand. Are there any brands of shock oil that are known to be significantly more thermally stable? I'd think not, or wouldn't Fox use it? Changes to oil weight will affect the feel of the shock at all temperatures and the damping will still get lighter as it heats up. Basically, if you want a shock that is consistent on long descents you need a coilover with piggyback (lots of oil to absorb heat & lots of surface area to lose it).Īny changes you make to the pressure will only affect the progressiveness/overall spring rate. I think that you'd still feel the compression damping fade and the air spring get stiffer from heat. Rockshox's thermally sensitive, expanding rebound needle is a novel solution and my friend who's testing it says it works great on long DH runs. I think Push's staged rebound cures this some but it will still get faster when the shock heats up. I feel this on my Mojo but it's the price you pay to descend hard on a lightweight shock. Small oil volume surrounded by an insulating air can is the issue. Since heat/fading/oil thinning is the problem I don't see any solution.
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